Frequently Asked Questions
People found it hard to believe at first. They have been so used to the leash that they feel disarmed without it. What they don't realize is that most problems occur off the leash. Some dogs may behave like a saint when on the leash, but when the leash is taken off, who knows what havoc can come out. When you use the Dog-Master® method, you DO NOT need a leash or any form of restraints whatsoever. Dog-Master® nurtures your dog's mind. That is how they learn. And oh, what a wonderful sense of joy it when you see your dog transforming into that dream dog who wants to please you and not the other way around. And with no leash!
Tiger Woods is a phenomenal golfer. But how many golf clubs does he need to win? Woods? Irons? Wedges? Putters? Woods (drivers) for distance; wedges for pitch or to get out of sand traps, etcetera. A good golfer knows what club to use, and when and where to use it. There is only 1 goal: to sink that ball in the hole. But it often takes different golf clubs to get it there.
Well, just like golfers, Dog-Masters benefit from the use of different instruments under different situations to get to 1 goal: for the DOG-MASTER® learning sound to reach the dog from wherever the master is, and whatever the dog is doing. It helps to understand that deviations in terrain and atmosphere can affect the strength, distance, and path or direction by which sound waves travel. That's why there are 4 types of DOG-MASTER® instruments, each designed to suit prevailing conditions of atmosphere and terrain, but all producing the same wonderful, precise mental sound. The M-1 is for short distances, such as when the puppy is just starting to learn, or chewing on your shoe. The M-2's sound waves weave around furniture, drapes, dodging lots of noise, and obstacles of all sorts like trees and bushes. The M-3 is for out in the clear open, higher altitudes and long distances-- especially good over "open water" (waterfowl hunters, you know what we're talking about here). And when in doubt, there is the M-4 which you can use in any situation and location, especially when working with larger working dogs. For a full description of each instrument, click here.
Not necessarily. If you have a Chihuahua and you live in a low-lying area like New Orleans, you probably don't need an M-3 or an M-4. But let us differentiate between QUANTITY and TYPE of instruments. Unlike in Interior Design where less is more, for Dog Masters, MORE is MORE. If you are just starting to condition your dog, you will want to have as many instruments in your possession as you can, preferably four— say two M-1s and two M-2s for your diminutive Chihuahua. That is because the very first lesson (teaching "Come!") using the Dog-Master method will require no more than a 10 or 15-foot distance between you and your dog. At such close distances ANY instrument will work superbly, but the fast pacing is such that having four instruments helps ensure there will be little or almost no interruption in the sequences of calls or commands. So remember: in the beginning, the QUANTITY of instruments matters more than the TYPE of instruments you have. It all becomes much more clear to you once you have actually begun doing the very first exercises with your instruments.
During the many years of research for Dog Master®, Dr. Miller has been able to scientifically establish that at the instant the instrument is sounded, the dog's mind is momentarily open to subliminal suggestion. This event— marked by a characteristic "V" or dip in the EEG recordings of the dog's brain waves— lasts for but a fraction of second. When a word is spoken within that very short period of time, the dog will retain that word. Therefore timing is critical. You should be able to speak your command at exactly the same time as you sound the instrument to ensure that your word directly reaches your dog's mind.
Before giving your dog his/her first lessons, it is important to get your timing right first. Practice away from your dog. Have someone else spot you. When you are actually doing the "live" exercises, observe your dog when you sound the instrument. If your dog immediately looks at you, your timing is right on.
It is important that on your first call or command to NOT "sound" the DOG-MASTER instrument because it gives your dog a chance to think. When the instrument is sounded (by chinking it in your palm) simultaneously with your second call, your word or command instantly fills the gap within your dog's brain waves and your dog quickly begins to search for the meaning of your word(s). Then once again on the third call, you do not sound the instrument so as to give your dog the time to assimilate your word. On the fourth call with the sound, your dog quickly begins to learn what you are trying to say. The fifth call without the sound, together with your action and praise, solidifies the learning experience.
In DOG-MASTER® language, problem corrections are called "Don'ts." They are the easiest to teach. However they are best taught after teaching "Come," because it is the "Come" command that establishes your vital Master Image. Without it your corrections may not be as long lasting as desired. And when the dog is coming sharply and instantly at all times, it means you are ready to correct almost any problem (such as jumping on people) before it occurs.
Not in the beginning. Remember, you have to say your dog's name before "Come," as in "Rex... Come!" That is why you should teach only one dog at a time when you are just starting. Make sure to keep the other dogs as far away from the "sound" as possible while teaching one dog, as it may create confusion among them.
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DOG-MASTER LEARNING SYSTEM